2018 Gigondas Le Plateau Domaine des Bosquets

All Mourvèdre brought up in old demi-muids, the 2018 Gigondas Le Plateau is a stunning example of this variety that does everything right. Classic Mourvèdre notes of blueberries, mulberries, new leather, lavender, and ground pepper give way to a full-bodied, beautifully balanced, elegant 2018 that has stacked mid-palate, flawless balance, silky tannins, and a great finish. It shows more tannins and structure with time in the glass, so give this beauty 2-3 years of bottle age, it should have 15-20 years of overall longevity.

Shimmering magenta. Powerful red/dark berry liqueur aromas are complicated by suggestions of smoky minerals and potpourri. A spicy hint of white pepper develops with air. Juicy and concentrated yet lively in style, offering sappy black raspberry, cherry compote and violet pastille flavors and a touch of allspice. The impressively long, focused finish features resonating floral and red berry notes and well-knit tannins that emerge slowly and steadily.

Juicy and youthfully compact, this has a wound-up core of blackberry and dark plum paste flavors that will take a little time to unwind, while tar, anise and roasted alder notes guide this along. Muscular but fresh and focused too, with plenty of pure fruit in reserve. Best from 2022 through 2034. From France. -J.M.

One of the few truly remarkable Mourvèdres from the Rhône Valley, the 2018 Gigondas Le Plateau comes from vines planted in 1922 on a north-facing site. Aged in used demi-muids, it's rich and velvety, full-bodied, with notes of raspberry compote, cassia bark, juniper and citrus zest. Spicy, complex and richly textured, it lingers on the finish.