2018 Gigondas La Colline Domaine des Bosquets Magnum

The exquisitely perfumed and intricately detailed 2018 Gigondas La Colline—100% Grenache from the highest part of the estate and limestone soils—is one of those wines I'd be happy to sit and smell all night. Revealing Campari-like spice complexity against a backdrop of cherries and raspberries, it's full-bodied yet never seems heavy or overdone, with a seductive, silky feel on the palate and a lingering, licorice-laced finish.

Coming from a tiny 1.5-hectare portion of clay and limestone soils and all old vine Grenache, the 2018 Gigondas La Colline is another gorgeous wine from this estate that strikes a balance between richness and elegance. More ruby-hued (these wines are never the deepest hued in Gigondas) and with a killer perfume of kirsch liqueur, framboise, herbes de Provence, chocolate, roasted herbs, and chalky minerality, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, ultra-fine tannins, no hard edges, and a gorgeous, heady finish. This cuvée is almost always the more powerful and concentrated in the lineup, yet in 2018 it shows the more elegant, seamless style of the vintage beautifully. It's going to benefit from a year or two of bottle age and drink fabulous well for a decade.

This shows a perfumy side, with silky-edged plum and black currant puree flavors swirling through with black tea and incense hints, ending with a long, focused and understated finish. A beguiling example of Gigondas. Best from 2021 through 2033. - J.M.