2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1. Cru Les Champs Canet Domaine Jacques Carillon

Pretty mid lemon, with an attractive bouquet, albeit containing some more exotic honeysuckle elements. The most poise of the four wines tasted from Champ Canet, with the greatest intensity at the finish.

(40+ year old vines). A subtle interjection of wood appears on the very smoky and well-layered aromas of various white orchard fruit, lavender and citrus zest. Once again there is excellent energy and punch to the more mineral-driven and more concentrated flavors that deliver really lovely complexity and sneaky good persistence. This is impressive and a wine that should amply reward a decade plus of cellaring. 92/2027+

The 2017 Pulingy-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet opens in the glass with scents of lemon oil, white flowers, almond paste and crushed chalk. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, textural and charming, with great cut and a precise finish. As I noted last year, this is typically the most immediate of Carillon's premiers crus, and the 2017 is showing well out of the gates.

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Canet 1er Cru offers attractive lime and green apple aromas, the 20% new oak nicely integrated. The palate is well balanced with orange zest and freshly sliced pear, almost Chassagne in style thanks to its gras-like finish. Very promising. 2022 - 2036.