2017 Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde Domaine Rostaing

Even better than last year, the recently bottled 2017 Cote Rotie La Cote Blonde was singing when I tasted it back in July. Floral and berry notes accent mocha-tinged aromas in this medium to full-bodied wine. It's silky, long and intense, with a couple of decades of life ahead of it. It's simply difficult to describe the waves of savory complexity this wine now shows, coupled with a succulent texture and tremendous length.

Just about perfection in a glass, the 2017 Côte Rôtie Côte Blonde is more plush and sexy compared to the La Landonne and has a beautiful, incredibly floral character as well as notes of crème de cassis, mulberries, black raspberries, spice, and new crushed violets. Full-bodied, seamless, and polished, it's an incredible expression of the Côte Blonde and has its own singular character. Drink it any time over the coming 20-25 years.

The winemaking at Domaine Rostaing is now in the hands of René's son Pierre, and it follows the same format for all the Côte-Rôties: four weeks in tank, 18 months in mostly old oak, natural yeasts, and as many stems as possible. A certain spice and perfume is contained within a dark, brooding mass, which has really fragrant, lifted, sweet berry fruit. There's considerable tangy berry acidity and blackberry-skin tannins, and it shows a good sense of refinement despite the remarkably powerful sinew. A very long, well balanced finish. Give it time.

Saturated violet. Intense dark berry, floral and exotic spice aromas pick up smoky mineral, cola and incense nuances as the wine opens up. Deep-pitched black raspberry, cherry compote and blueberry flavors reveal suggestions of candied violet and star anise. Finishes extremely long and juicy, the steadily building tannins framing lingering blue fruit and floral notes. -- Josh Raynolds 95 Josh Raynolds 2024 - 2034.

Saturated violet. Intense dark berry, floral and exotic spice aromas pick up smoky mineral, cola and incense nuances as the wine opens up. Deep-pitched black raspberry, cherry compote and blueberry flavors reveal suggestions of candied violet and star anise. Finishes extremely long and juicy, the steadily building tannins framing lingering blue fruit and floral notes. -- Josh Raynolds 95 Josh Raynolds 2024 - 2034.

Features a tender core of gently steeped plum and black cherry fruit, framed by light lavender, sandalwood and olive notes. Pepper, cast iron and savory elements dart through on the finish, which is sneakily long. Best from 2022 through 2038.