2016 Porphyr Lagrein Riserva Alto Adige Cantina Terlan

You rarely, if ever, see this level of complexity in a lagrein, which goes headlong through bracken, tea leaves, vanilla, blackberries, undergrowth, heather and violet extract. Full-bodied and very structured indeed, the chewy tannins envelop layers of compact yet exuberant dark fruit. Elements of undergrowth and spice linger on the long finish. Stunning. Delicious now, but better in 2022.

The 2016 Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Porphyr pours from the bottle with deep and dark intensity. Raw cherry and blackberry notes pop out from the big, ripe and dark fruit. There's good dimension to this Lagrein, with lots of inky black fruit and nuance. It's a bit raw. I'm being generous with my drinking window here, and it's probably better to just enjoy this now with a pot roast. The wine ages in barrique for 18 months, with one-third new oak. Some 22,000 bottles were produced.

This is perhaps the best lagrein in the market