2012 Ermitage Ex-voto blanc Guigal

This offers a jaw-dropping display of white peach, creamed Jonagold apple, Cavaillon melon and persimmon fruit flavors intertwined with citronella, chamomile, singed macadamia nut and salted butter notes. Remarkably creamy in feel and seriously long, delivering echoes of citrus oil and smoke. Hard to resist now, but this isn't going anywhere for a while. Best from 2017 through 2032. From France.-J.M.

Scheduled to be released in February of next year, the 2012 Hermitage Ex Voto Blanc is similar to the classic Hermitage Blanc, yet ratchets the intensity up a notch. Acacia flowers, brioche, caramelized peach, quince and even a kiss of mint all emerge from this full-bodied, layered, concentrated white that has fabulous mid-palate depth and a blockbuster finish. Drink it anytime over the coming two decades.

Bright yellow-gold. Ripe citrus and pit fruits and pungent flowers on the powerful, mineral- tinged nose. Sappy, deeply concentrated nectarine, poached pear and honeysuckle flavors show superb clarity and pick up a suggestion of iodine with air. Smoothly melds power and finesse and finishes with outstanding energy and length, leaving behind notes of candied flowers, honey and smoky minerals.

I tasted the likely blend although it may well all go into the classic bottling, as it has in 2011. 90% Murets (alluvial fluvio-glaciaires and pebbles) and 10% Hermite (loess plateau and clay-sand silt). Half from 100-year-old vines and the other half 50 years old. Much less aromatically expressive than the regular Hermitage Blanc. All potential and acidity rather than the openness of the regular.