Quinta do Vallado 40 Year Old Tawny Port i Gaverør

The 40 Year Old Tawny was aged in very old oak 600-liter casks and old oak vats. It is an old-vines field blend with residual sugar of 196 grams per liter. Even more so than its 20-year sibling reviewed this issue, its sugary with an endless finish. It adds a layer or two of depth to the 20, but it is so sexy and so rich that it seems a bit less complex, which is not always the way this works in comparing 20s and 40s. As it airs out and that first rush blows off, though, you do begin to get the complexity this has in spades. It is more piercing and gripping. You eventually taste the treacle and concentrated molasses underneath. You realize how fine it is when you notice that the powerful and sugary finish never seems to end. It is a rather decadent 40, taking no prisoners and going for the sex appeal, but it doesn't ignore other aspects. This will make you swoon, if you haven't already, from looking at the price point. Hopefully, it will get some steep discounts on the street as the listed price is only a SRP, but note also that the bottle is only a 500ml.

A flash of cherry gives way quickly to date, green tea, ginger and sandalwood notes, with an echo of persimmon through the finish. This has a rounded, viscous feel but manages to stay lithe and alluring as the flavors play out. Drink now. 125 cases made. -JM

Fascinating combination of salted peanut, dried plums, figs, and toffee aromas follow through to a full body with lots of nutty character to the dried and rich fruits. Walnuts and burnt toffee. Very sweet at the end. Special tawny.