Quinta do Vallado 20 Year Old Tawny Port i Gaverør

The 20 Year Old Tawny, bottled in 2013, was aged in very old oak casks and vats. It is an old-vines field blend with residual sugar of 119 grams per liter. Opening with a big, big rush of sugar, this shows more focus and far more complexity than I sensed on the first whiff. The finish is crisp and laced with a bit of brandy. This isn't big and thick, but it seems far richer than it is given the finish and the aromatics. The aromatics are very powerful for a 20. The remarkably concentrated flavors on the finish also seem often to exceed what many 20s deliver. This is quite an exceptional 20 Year from many perspectives, but that finish is particularly exceptional. There were a mere 1,000 bottles of 500ml produced.

Beautiful aromas of caramel and orange peel with some toffee and pomegranate follow through to a medium body with bright fruit, tangy acidity and a caramel finish. Fantastic!

Quinta do Vallado ligger i den nedre del af Douro, i Baixo Corgo ved Paso da Régua. Her falder mere nedbør, og temperaturerne er ikke så voldsomme som længere oppe i dalen. Ferreira- familien står bag huset, som nok er mere kendt for sine bordvine end portvinen. Ikke desto mindre laver Francisco og João Ferreira en mesterlig tawny. Lys som rabarbermost, orangetonet og anmassende duft med tørret appelsinskal, ristede mandler, krydderipose til gløgg og læder. Dybt under det umiddelbare ligger en note af cigar og ribs. Det dystre og det opvakte på samme tid. Smagen har brændt karamel, amontillado-voldsomhed, nærmest som Islay whisky og rancio-effekt som i stor cognac, men løber let. Bjergtagende kompleksitet.