2016 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru Henri Boillot

(Boillot noted that Chevalier was the only grand cru that didn't freeze in 2016). Like several wines in the range there is a subtle whiff of the exotic in the form of mandarin orange to the acacia blossom, green fruit and mineral reduction-suffused aromas. The dense, serious and powerful broad-shouldered flavors flash plenty of minerality on the chiseled, even crystalline finish that delivers huge length. This tautly muscular effort is seriously good though patience will of course be necessary. 96/2028+ .

Bright light-medium yellow. Very sexy, quintessential Chevalier nose of citrus fruits and white peach, crushed rock and ginger, plus an element of smoky oak. A wonderfully glyceral wine with a powerful salty impression of extract and strong supporting acidity. Finishes chewy and very long, but without any excess weight. Juicy lemony cut gives this wine a distinctly crystalline quality. A classic Chevalier-Montrachet in the making. This and the Bâtard are in 100% new oak, while the Pucelles, Clos de la Mouchère and Combettes are around 50%, but Boillot notes that the larger (350-liter) format of his barrels is very important.