2015 Volnay 1. Cru Clos des Chênes Domaine Jean-Marc Bouley

Dark red; not as ruby as the Carelles. Deep, complex scents of black cherry, licorice and earth show less exuberance than the Caillerets and Carelles from younger vines but another dimension of richness and nuance. Wonderfully silky, lively wine with little easy sweetness but an intriguing saline character. Totally different in shape from the foregoing Volnays, finishing with noble, fine-grained tannins and spreading out horizontally to saturate the palate and perk up the salivary glands. Very classy, dry and stylish, showing a bit of the austerity of this windy, high-altitude premier cru.