2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1. Cru Combe aux Moines Domaine Fourrier

This evocatively named parcel was planted in 1926 (not by monks, as its name suggests) and always produces one of the best Fourrier reds. It's sometimes a little tight in its youth, with marked chalky acidity from the old quarry, sweet raspberry and red plum fruit and a saline finish. 2022-32.

This is more deeply pitched still with its notes of plum, leather, black cherry, newly turned earth and smoked meat hints. The succulent, rich and seductive broad-shouldered flavors manage to at once be juicy yet serious as the firm tannic spine that emerges on the gorgeously long finish makes very clear. Excellent.

The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe Aux Moines has a gorgeous bouquet with red cherries and bergamot scents, wonderful mineralité seeping through with time with superb delineation. The palate is medium- bodied with sappy red berry fruit, fine tannins and very impressive density without compromising elegance on the finish. Excellent.

Restrained aromas of raspberry, cranberry and game, plus a whiff of leathery reduction. Plush wine with a seamless texture, conveying lovely sucrosité and spicy lift to its red berry flavors. The leathery element repeats in the mouth. This soil-driven premier cru shows an almost confectionery character but finishes with a firm tannic spine.

Medium red. Lively perfume of raspberry, spices and dried flowers complicated by leather and soil tones. Supple on entry, then quite backward--in fact almost austere-- in the middle palate, less open to inspection today than the Champeaux. Conveys a touch of rusticity to its flavors of leather, spices, earth and minerals. This classically dry wine will need at least five or six years in the cellar to uncoil.