2015 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne Domaine Rostaing

No destemming, aged in demi-muid, a maximum of 10% new oak. Macerated herbs, intense berry fruit, some meat stock. Very full and intense, almost minty in its herbal register. Mouthcoating and powerful, but all ripe and in balance. This is really exciting to taste, it heightens all the senses. Large- framed but exceptionally pure and very long. 2021-2035.

The 2015 Côte Rôtie La Landonne is more tannic and structured, with the smoky, meaty, mineral-laced bouquet I always find in this terroir. Black, black fruits, full body, a layered, rich, opulent texture, and building tannin make for one seriously impressive Côte Rôtie that needs to be forgotten for 5- 7 years. It will last for 2-3 decades.

Am I being stingy in only awarding Rostaing's 2015 Cote Rotie la Landonne 99+ points? This is a tremendous wine, showing immense richness and power without any apparent weight. Raspberries flood the palate in waves, accented by various spices in a wine that's intensely tannic yet never hard or astringent. Breathtaking stuff.

Inky ruby. Deep- pitched, smoke- and spice-accented aromas of black currant and cherry compote, violet and incense take on a hint of exotic spices with air. Lush and expansive on the palate, offering concentrated black and blue fruit liqueur, licorice and spicecake flavors that are sharpened by a smoky mineral element. Becomes sweeter and livelier with air and finishes extremely long, featuring rounded tannins and lingering spiciness. Drink: 2023-2031 .

A broad and deep wine, filled with dark fig, blackberry and boysenberry compote flavors that are layered with graphite, warm ganache and smoldering tobacco. A warm cast-iron note echoes resoundingly through the finish, which is laden with serious grip. Best from 2023 through 2040. 800 cases made.-J.M.