2014 Nuits St Georges Ultra La Richemone Dom. Perrot-Minot

A little-known Premier Cru from the Vosne side of Nuits, planted in 1902. It's another impressive bottling from Christophe Perrot-Minot, with the plush fruit of former village and the stony, ferrous note of the latter. Subtle, understated concentration, with polished tannins, whole bunch spice and firm, but well integrated tannins. 2019-28.

This is the first wine to display any appreciable reduction that is enough to dominate the fruit at present. The equally full-bodied flavors are more concentrated still with superb power and punch on the robust, muscular and notably serious finish that seems to go on and on. This isn't as stylish and classy as the Combe d'Orveau but there is just a bit more here.

The 2014 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru La Richemoines Cuvée Ultra has a clean and precise, mineral-driven bouquet that is a little austere at the moment, but that will fill out. There is great terroir expression here and real energy. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit on the entry. This is nice structured, grippy in the mouth with good tension. What is needs is a little more flesh to develop towards the finish, as it does come across as very linear and strict at the moment. Let's see how it performs in bottle.

Bright full red. Wonderfully vibrant scents of raspberry, cherry, peppery spices, flowers, licorice and bitter chocolate. Silky, saline and dense, conveying a restrained sweetness and distinct soil complexity to the flavors of dark raspberry and smoky minerals. The wine's richness and depth are perfectly cut by mineral-driven energy. This sharply delineated wine finishes with noble tannins and excellent length.