2014 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sori Ginestra Conterno Fantino

Impressive complexity and fruit presence on the nose with ripe, spiced red plums, cherries and fresh cedary oak, leading to a palate with some handy weight. Good flow of fruit and tannins that carry the finish long. Try from 2022.

The 2014 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra is an amped up expression of Nebbiolo with excellent structure and lasting intensity. I am told that this vineyard site performs best in the cool vintages such as 2014. The wine plays its best cards in the mouth, thanks to the structure and the grounded firmness on offer here. Fabio Fantino tells me: "You can drive a car in the sunshine, in the rain and in the fog." I just love this quote because it so perfectly sums up the difficult 2014 vintage. As long as the driver knows where he or she is headed, the outside conditions can be navigated nevertheless.

The 2014 Barolo Sorì Ginestra is striking. Ample, creamy and voluptuous, it exudes class from the very first taste. Like all of these wines, the 2014 Sori has a sweetness of tannin that is impossible to miss. Lavender, blueberry jam, spice and menthol build into the sumptuous, enveloping finish. The 2014 is a real stunner. That's all there is to it 2020-2034.

Enticing flavors of sweet cherry and strawberry are accented by leather, licorice and tar details in this solidly built yet supple red. Notes of wild herb, menthol, mineral and underbrush add interest as this plays out on the finish. Best from 2022 through 2043.-B.S.