2012 Cobos Bramare VD Malbec Rebon Vineyard Mendoza

Paul Hobbs makes this impressive Malbec with only 10-year-old purchased fruit from La Consulta. It's a classic Viña Cobos style showing textured tannins, ripe blueberry and blackberry fruit, expertly handled oak, some Asian spices and enough acidity for balance. Ripe, yet well judged. 2016-22

The oakier of the single vineyards was the 2012 Bramare Malbec Rebon Vineyard, which had aromas of roasted wood and very ripe berries. This vineyard is in La Consulta. The nose feels sweet, with plenty of cinnamon and vanilla, a little too oaky for my taste (all these vineyards designated wines age for some 17 months in around 60% new French oak barrels). The palate is full-bodied, dense, thick, glossy and intense, lifted by the alcohol, with plenty of the sweet cinnamon and spicy notes found in the nose. Wait a bit for this XL Malbec.

Bright medium ruby to the rim. Inviting nose melds blackberry pastille, violet and bitter chocolate. Densely packed and lush, showing a lovely light touch for such a rich wine. Black fruit, violet, coffee bean and spice flavors display excellent sweetness and energy but are still a bit youthfully bound-up. Finishes precise and long, with firm tannins nicely supported by the wine's stuffing. Needs time.

Rocking black-fruit aromas come with strong accents of wood grain, char and desert herbs. This is big and rich from front to tail, with poking but controlled tannins and ripe, heady flavors of blackberry, cassis, herbs and toasted wood. Plum, blackberry, salty notes and charred oak flavors define the finish; drink through 2022.

Redolent of chocolate mousse, this offers flavors of dark plum, blackberry and cherry tart, filled with plenty of creamy notes. Luscious and spicy midpalate, with a snap of black licorice on the finish. Drink now through 2022. -KM