2006 Salon "Le Mesnil" Vintage

19 parcels from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger; 4g/L dosage; less than 60,000 bottles My first encounter with Salon 2006 was at the maison on the day of its global release. While this cuvée tends to pick up a little colour as it develops across its release cycle, it is characteristically a brilliant, pale straw hue when it first emerges from the darkness of a decade in the deep, blinking, into the stark light of day. Hence a suggestion of yellow to its hue immediately signals the magnitude of the season and the proportions of this release. This is a Salon of immense exotic complexity, nuanced with the spicy mandarin, succulent persimmon and juicy white peach of fully ripe chardonnay, the caramel of more than a decade of age, even an unexpected note of dark chocolate, surrounding a core of golden delicious apple and grapefruit. True to the ripeness of 2006, it is creamy, soft and engaging, with gentle saline mineral structure highlighted by softly integrated acidity. Without the acid drive or energy of a great Salon, the malic level is evidently low in this warm season. A very fine bead sets off a long finish, marked by a subtle touch of warm-season phenolic grip. A fresh and lively take on a ripe vintage, this is a Salon for early consumption, though it will benefit from another five years to evolve.

The 2006 Salon is a very rich wine, almost uncharacteristically so. Deep and exotic the 2006 exudes richness in all of its dimensions, with myriad inflections of sumptuous fruit that fill out its ample, large-scaled frame. Today, the 2006 is surprisingly accessible for a young Salon, but it needs time to shed some baby fat. At times, the 2006 recalls the 2002, but it appears to have more phenolic intensity and overall structure. Even with all of its flamboyance and pure volume, the 2006 retains quite a bit of energy and freshness. I imagine it will be a fascinating, utterly compelling Champagne to follow over the next several decades.

The 2006 Salon Brut Blanc De Blancs Le Mesnil is still closed and backward, but wow, it has incredible potential. Showing the more ripe, concentrated style of the vintage in its orchard/citrus fruits and chalky minerality, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, brilliant purity, elegant, bright acidity, and a big finish. It's a big, layered, structured Salon that needs to be forgotten for 4-5 years, but it's going to drink beautifully for two decades.

The 2006 Salon Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil Brut has a shining silver-golden color, the bubbles are tiny and enormously fine-they probably wouldn't stop rising from the bottom of the glass if you left the wine in it instead of drinking it. On the nose, there is a fascinating, pure and fresh bouquet with acacia, chalk, incense and concentrated lemon flavors. The 2006 is mouthfilling, round and elegant on the palate, as well as dense and tight but also fresh and cleansing, provided with great finesse, mineral complexity, length and structure. The finish is clear and aromatic, round and well balanced, slightly creamy, very intense, greatly finessed and truly elegant, with stimulating salinity in the aftertaste. Being restrained and generous at the same time, the 2006 Salon is a great promise rather than the greatest drinking pleasure today. Although I tasted the Salon several times over 36 hours, there is a chalky layer on everything, a taste of a wet sponge, soaked with a lot of chalk for the moment but also ultra-dark chocolate flavors (with at least 80% cacao) and candied lemon and orange zests. The truth or the soul of the 2006 Salon, I guess, is rather indicated in the almost emptied glass, from which ripe, yellow-fleshed fruit aromas (plums!), brioche, marzipan and floral flavors come out, reflecting a perfect ripeness of fruit as well as the great terroir of Le Mesnil. So, please, don't drink the 2006 straight after opening the bottle. Take a good Champagne glass and give the wine a while to breathe and open up. The aging capacity of the 2006 should be tremendous here. 2020 - 2040.

The creamy mousse of this graceful Champagne caresses the palate like cashmere, carrying a beautiful range of glazed nectarine, chopped almond, pastry and candied ginger flavors framed by vivid acidity. Seamless, with a long, lasting finish accented by minerally chalk and saline notes. Drink now through 2031. 1,000 cases imported. -AN.