2016 Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde Domaine Rostaing

The 2016 Cote Rotie La Cote Blonde (from the lieu-dit of the same name-not a blend of sites) is a terrific effort. It blends the structure of la Viallière with the elegance of la Landonne, making it a truly complete and compelling bottle. Some mocha, black olive and meaty notes lend it a savory cast, while the palate is creamy and concentrated, firm but silky. It's medium to full-bodied, with a fine, licorice-tinged finish that lingers a good long time. It should drink well for 20+ years.

No destemming here, aged in mostly old demi-muids with no more than 10% new oak. A captivatingly pretty floral fragrance can be coaxed out along with aniseed and blackberry notes, but it's tightly wound for now. The rounded palate is dense, with good concentration of red fruit and delightfully perfumed juniper. Soft tannins coat the mouth, and oak is present but well judged. There's good balancing acidity and a lovely, gently mineral seam leads onto a long, saline, savoury, piercing finish. Real detail and precision. Drinking Window 2020 - 2033.

Lurid purple. Pungent aromas of ripe red berries, potpourri and smoky minerals pick up a spicy nuance as the wine stretches out. Silky and seamless in the mouth, displaying superb clarity to the sappy, mineral-laced black raspberry, boysenberry, candied violet and spicecake flavors. Shows a distinctly finesseful, even Burgundian character and finishes wonderfully long and sweet, with building tannins framing the intense fruit and floral qualities.

Lastly, the 2016 Côte Rôtie Côte Blonde is more seamless and elegant, with a more perfumed, pretty style in its red and black raspberry fruits, crushed flowers, game, violets, and crushed rocks. Medium to full-bodied, ethereal, seamless, and incredibly polished, it has building tannins, no hard edges, and a great, great finish. Where the La Landonne is all meat and smoke, this is floral and red fruit-driven. Hide bottles for 2-4 years and enjoy over the following 15-20.

A fresh bay leaf note leads off, followed quickly by sleek black cherry and blackberry fruit flavors. Light savory, white pepper, olive and singed iron notes underscore the finish. This has serious latent grip, so no rush. Best from 2020 through 2035. From France.-J.M.