2015 Welschriesling TBA No. 11 Zwischen den Seen Kracher 37,5cl

A touch of smoke, freshly brewed Darjeeling and candied peel of bitter orange unite in a most intriguing nose. The viscous liquid is of an unusual density, brimming at every atom with its barley sugar flavors and caramelized black tea leaf and citrus notes. There is a wonderfully alluring element of bitterness that sets as much of a counterpoint to the otherworldly sweetness as the rapier acidity. The purity of expression is astonishing; concentration and intensity are extraordinary. An elixir. Drink until 2040, at least

Aged for 18 months in stainless steel, the 2015 Trockenbeerenauslese No 11 Welschriesling Zwischen den Seen is precise and spicy on the concentrated yet highly refined and even subtle nose. Rich and nobly sweet on the palate, this is a lush and highly elegant as well as finessed Welsch with really fine tannins and a lovely freshness. The acidity is vital but integrated, and the wine has remarkable balance even though the residual sugar weighs in at 313 grams per liter. Bottled with 6.5% alcohol. 2025 - 2050.

Taking the sugar up to another level with 313 grams and a minuscule alcohol of 6.5%, the 2015 Trockenbeerenauslese No 11 Welschriesling Zwischen den Seen offers a thick, unctuous style that takes time in the glass to open up. Beautiful, honeyed aromatics of apricots, dried herbs, caramelized citrus, and white flowers all emerge from this incredibly classy, elegant, powerful, perfectly balanced dessert wine. It has a big, thick mid-palate, lots of sugar, and vibrant acidity, all promising a solid, lengthy evolution over the coming 3-4 decades.

Petrol, baked apple and spice flavors are allied to a lean frame. Balanced, yet feels a bit softer than its peers, as the aftertaste extends with dried apple and spice notes. Drink now through 2029.-B.S.

The 2015 Welschriesling TBA (Nummer 11) is rich and viscous in the glass, with real textural plushness wrapped around orange jam, spice, leather, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco flavors. Naturally, the Nummer 11 is one of the more opulent wines in the range, but it has the frame to handle all of that intensity.