2010 Barolo Vigna del Gris Conterno Fantino

The 2010 Barolo Vigna del Gris is beautiful, layered and expressive. Sweet tobacco, mint, licorice, crushed flowers and plums meld together in a supple, gracious wine for the year. Sweet rose petals and mint add an attractive upper register of trademark aromatics and perfume as the wine opens up in the glass. The 2010 remains dense and compact, but it is impossible to miss that the tannins here are more refined than has typically been the case with the Gris in the past, which is probably the result of vines getting older. The 2010 needs time to unwind, but it is quite pretty and full of potential. Conterno-Fantino gave the 2010 a year in 100% new French oak, followed by a year in a combination of equal parts barrique and cask. 2018 - 2030.

A vein of sandy soil in the vineyard makes for special conditions that favor delicate aromas of blue flower, forest fruit, ash and brimstone. In essence, this is a sharply focused and linear expression that leaves a direct and long-lasting impact in the mouth.

There's a hard outer shell to this monolithic red, with an inner core of sweet cherry, raspberry, cinnamon, mint, flowers and mineral. Layered and persistent, with fine intensity marking the long aftertaste. Shows excellent balance and potential. Best from 2018 through 2036.-B.S.

A wine with blueberry and spice character, plus hints of flowers. Medium to full body with firm tannins and a fresh finish. Better in 2017.