2007 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon

From the amazing Beckstoffer To- Kalon Vineyard, Hobbs' 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is a slightly more opulent, broader, savory effort that comes close to the perfect 2002. The 2007 has more noticeable tannin than the 2002 did at the same stage as well as more obvious minerality, but notes of graphite, black currant liqueur, licorice, cedar, and spice box are found in this full-bodied, multidimensional, fabulously concentrated wine. It was aged in 100% new Taransaud French oak barrels. Give it 5-6 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following three decades. This is a brilliant portfolio of Cabernet Sauvignons from Paul Hobbs, one of the wine world's top consultants whose own California projects are augmented by his superb work in Argentina.

Deep ruby with a black tinge. The nose displays a liqueur-like ripeness to the aromas of crushed, wild dark berries, tart black cherry, violet and resiny herbs. On the palate, an urgent, primary thickness of berry fruit is complemented by a high-toned chocolatey quality. This slightly porty yet high-pitched wine is a bit aggressively tannic and warm and still needs time to absorb its baby fat and gain in drinkability. I suspect that it's passing through a sullen phase today.

An ultrarich Cabernet whose ripe fruit is as elaborate as you can get. Ditto for the soft, plush tannins and the wealth of fine, sweet oak.