2015 Barbaresco Rabajà Riserva Produttori del Barbaresco

The 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà hits the palate with a blast of dark cherry, plum, chocolate, new leather, licorice, smoke and spice. Somber and imposing, the Rabajà shows plenty of its typical breadth and body, but, not surprisingly, it is also closed and in need of time. There is good energy here, if not quite the visceral thrill of the very best years.

Wild berry, violet, face powder and eucalyptus aromas lift out of the glass. On the youthfully austere, structured palate, tightly knit but noble tannins wrap around black cherry, raspberry, licorice and crushed mint. Give this a few more years to fully develop.

Rabajà has a complex mix of soils and at its northern edges joins the vineyards of Asili and Muncagota. This was first bottled by Produttori as a single-vineyard wine in 1971. The 2015 is darker and richer than all here other than perhaps the Asili and Rio Sordo. It has an intense meaty, inky character framed by wood and with an overlay of vanilla. It combines power and density with elegant tannins and high acidity. 17,300 bottles and 1,300 magnums produced. Drinking Window 2022 - 2040.

The Produttori del Barbaresco 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is a stunning wine. The aromas rise from the glass with purpose, clarity and extreme definition. This is indeed a very special wine, thanks to the direct and linear quality of fruit and the elegant tannins that build the long finish. The Nebbiolo grape is elevated to a beautiful plain or plateau, where it shows off its naked beauty in a clear and unobstructed manner. The wine affords us a panoramic view of the Piedmont grape, planted in the white tuffaceous marl soils of Rabajà. Exactly 16,104 bottles were made.

Though rich, this red offers bright acidity and dense tannins that lend a sense of tightness, with pure cherry, strawberry and floral flavors that are persistent from start to lingering finish, where distinct spice and mineral elements play out. Best from 2023 through 2045. From Italy. -B.S.