2017 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Grand Vin Château de Nalys

Piquant hits of shaved peppercorn and clove lend warmth to rich, glossy black plum and mulberry in this penetrating red. A blend of Grenache and Syrah accented by smaller proportions of three other regional red grapes, it's full in body but thrilling and fresh, lifted by a crush of minerality and lingering traces of leather, earth and sage. Drink through 2040.

There are wines that leave you just speechless from the surprise, and this is one of them. I fully expected a wine with this pedigree from Guigal to be excellent, but the reality greatly surpassed my imagination. And considering that the 2018 vintage is the first time that the Guigal family (that bought the estate in 2017) was able to put its stamp on the whole production from start to finish (pruning, flowering, veraison, harvest, winemaking and bottling), this 2017 is even more impressive (in 2020 Guigal increased their holdings in Châteauneuf-du-Pape by buying the Clefs d’Or domaine, which owned a large swath of old vines (some very, very old: how very, very old? As in nineteenth century old) in La Crau, one of the two or three best crus of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Given that those graes will now go into Château de Nalys, this is a wine that can only get better and better (there is also a readier to drink wine, the Saintes Pierres de Nalys).

Bright ruby. Ripe black and blue fruits, potpourri, incense and baking spices on the deeply perfumed, expansive nose. Coats the palate with sweet boysenberry, black raspberry and floral pastille flavors that are sharpened by emerging mineral and cracked pepper flourishes. Shows the depth and power of the vintage but comes off quite lively, delivering strong dark berry thrust on the long, gently tannic finish.

To be bottled in November, I sampled the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Grand Vin on two occasions (once blind), with consistent notes. Black cherry and raspberry fruit dominate, although subtle notions of garrigue and peppery spice add interest. It's full-bodied, round and mouthfilling, lush, supple, silky and long. A blend of 51% Grenache, 36% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre and 1% Counoise, almost half is maturing in concrete tanks, with another big chunk in foudres. Less than a third is in barrels or demi-muids 2020-2030 .