2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Cadettes Ch La Nerthe

Also slightly more mid-weight than I remember, yet still more than outstanding, the 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes (39% Syrah, 37% Grenache, 22% Mourvedre and the rest assorted varieties, aged in new French oak) has classy notes of cassis, toast, vanilla bean and roasted meats. Possessing fabulous purity, medium to full-bodied richness and moderate overall depth and concentration, it can be enjoyed anytime over the coming decade. While this needs more flesh, it should still evolve gracefully on its overall balance.

Saturated ruby. Deep- pitched cherry, dark berry, cola and floral pastille aromas are complemented by smoky mineral and incense notes in the background. Supple, sweet and expansive in the mouth, offering sweet blueberry, cherry compote, candied lavender and licorice flavors that show excellent depth. A hint of vanilla appears on the smooth, gently tannic finish, which lingers with serious tenacity. The oak that I noticed so much last year is still present but it's nowhere near as assertive today.

Rather ripe, with alluring warmed raspberry coulis, plum sauce and blackberry paste flavors, threaded with a licorice snap note and backed by warm ganache and Turkish coffee accents. Not shy in style, but has the freshness to stay balanced. Best from 2017 through 2024.-J.M.