2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Clos de Beauvenir Ch. La Nerthe

The top white of the estate, and coming from the Clos de Beauvenir lieu-dit, which lies just to the south of the estate, the 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc Clos de Beauvenir is the best vintage of this cuvee I've tasted. Comprised of 58% Roussanne, 32% Clairette, 8% Grenache Blanc and a splash of Bourboulenc, fermented and aged almost all in barrel (one-third new), it sports drop-dead gorgeous aromas of melon, buttered citrus, white flowers, almond paste and hints of honey to go with a full-bodied, incredibly fresh and focused profile on the palate. While this cuvee always delivers uncommon richness, it's the purity and focus here that sets it above other vintages. Again, it will age (although typically, I think of the traditional cuvee as being more age-worthy), yet I'd still pair it up with a classy meal over the coming 3-4 years. Drink now- 2018.

Bright yellow-gold. Highly perfumed scents of tangerine, pear skin, jasmine and vanilla, lifted by a smoky mineral overtone. Concentrated citrus and orchard fruit flavors are complicated by hints of sweet butter, smoky oak and nougat elements and pick up a gingery quality with air. Gently sweet, seamless and broad, displaying vibrant mineral cut and strong closing tenacity.

Gorgeous ginger, heather and warm brioche notes form the frame, while the core of creamed Jonagold apple, Cavaillon melon and green fig plays out beautifully. Drink now through 2016.-J.M.