2014 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Clos du Bélvèdere Ch. Vaudieu

Less rich, concentrated and interesting than normal, the 2014 Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc Clos de Bélvédère has pretty notes of citrus blossom, leafy herbs and apple peel to go with a medium-bodied, fresh, lively and racy (if not tart) style on the palate. Made from 100% Grenache Blanc that was brought up most in barrel, it's a step back from previous vintage yet still solid.

Fermented and aged for 9 months in barriques. Soft, creamy, pear flesh nose. Very broad on the palate, but then tapers in quickly thanks to fine acidity and a touch of neatening tannin. There is clear oak influence, but more on the structure of the wine rather than the aromatics. Long, straight finish.

Brilliant gold. Deep-pitched aromas of candied peach, poached pear, fig and honey carry a smoky overtone. Plush orchard fruit and pit fruit flavors are complemented by hints of sweet butter and nougat, picking up a floral quality with aeration. In a weighty, ample style, showing very good concentration and a long, gently sweet, floral-dominated finish. This powerful wine would work well with the most decadently rich, buttery seafood or poultry dishes.

This sports a ripe core of Peach Melba, apricot and melon fruit, but stays focused and balanced, with streaks of bitter almond and salted butter on the finish. Drink now through 2016.-J.M.