2010 Champagne Le Cran Ludes 1. Cru Bérêche et Fils

Aromas of white tea, buttered orchard fruit, dried apricot and citrus oil introduce the 2010 Premier Cru Le Cran, a medium to full-bodied, layered and mineral wine that's fine-boned, elegant and expressive, without the power or structural musculature of the 2012 rendition, but with more immediacy, too 2020 - 2033 .

50% chardonnay, 50% pinot from two plots on very thin soils over chalk on the crest of Ludes, the pinot facing east and the chardonnay facing west to catch the afternoon sun; planted 1965-1969 by Raphaël and Vincent's grandfather; vinified in barrels; no malolactic fermentation; aged on lees 8 years; 3g/L dosage; 3870 bottles, 245 magnums Bérêche has been refining the ripeness, oak and sulphur of this cuvée for seven vintages. The scintillating 2008 proved his efforts - his finest work yet - and the great 2010 confirms it, evidence of the heights of his terroirs and his methods even in a lesser season (though he discloses that he loves this classic vintage). A truly great 2010 by any measure, uniting the morello cherries and strawberry hull of pinot noir with the pear and lemon of chardonnay, bolstering the accord with the toasty complexity and creamy texture of long lees age. The chalk minerality tapped by these old vines on thin soils melds harmoniously with pronounced malic acidity on the finish. Such proximity to the chalk produces the lowest pH (highest acidity) in the winery. For all of its tension, the ripe fruit aspiration of the house creates wonderful presence and confidence which lingers very long. Patience .

Aromatic chalk and lime blossom notes accent ripe Jonagold apple, salted almond, crystalized honey and grated ginger flavors in this fresh and finely textured version, which layers a lithe streak of racy acidity with the creamy profile. Disgorged November 2017. Drink now through 2028.-A.N.

Aromas of white tea, buttered orchard fruit, dried apricot and citrus oil introduce the 2010 Premier Cru Le Cran, a medium to full-bodied, layered and mineral wine that's fine-boned, elegant and expressive, without the power or structural musculature of the 2012 rendition, but with more immediacy, too 2020 - 2033.