2016 Porseleinberg Syrah Swartland Boekenhoutskloof

(14%) If ever a South African wine tasted of specific place it is Porseleinberg, the Cape's answer to Cornas in terms of its dense, compact structure, but with a personality that is all its own: wild, savoury and unruly with tannins that can be demanding in their youth. Fermented with 100% whole bunches and aged in a combination of concrete eggs and foudres, it's ripe, but not overly so, with notes of garrigue and tangerine and a stony, compact finish. 2022-35.

An expressive nose of white pepper, melted chocolate, sliced plums and pitted cherries. Full-bodied with very fine tannins. Vibrant and expressive on the palate with succulent red and black fruit. Cherries and blackberries. Bright acidity lifts everything up and is further pushed by the vibrant spice. Clove, coriander and white pepper. Drink or hold.

The 2016 Syrah was "a hell of a challenge," according to winemaker Callie Louw, but he produced an absolutely stunning wine, despite the parched vines suffering half the amount of rainfall. The wine was matured in 70% foudres and 30% concrete eggs. This was the first year the alcohol level breached 14.0%. The very expressive bouquet, more vivid than the 2015, features blackberry, bilberry, a touch of raspberry, cracked black pepper and just a faint hint of charcoal. This is a very cerebral Porseleinberg. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, outstanding structure, broody black fruit and gentle grip, and the schist soils are very expressive on a finish that feels fresh but extremely complex. 2021 - 2038.

Winery of the Year.

Ripe and inviting, with warm plum sauce and raspberry pâte de fruit notes wrapped in red licorice and roasted vanilla details. A sanguine streak contrasts with the fruit and enlivens the finish. Youthfully compact, but this displays serious latent length. Syrah. Best from 2020 through 2029.