2014 Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Domaine Weinbach

From the upper part of the terraced single vineyard site, the 2014 Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg opens with pure, intense and fresh lime flavors on the nose, and indicates a concentrated, aromatically precise and minerally articulated character that reflects the cooler nature of the Schlossberg compared to the nearby Sonnenberg Grand Cru in Niedermorschwihr. The attack on the palate is fruit intense and elegant, wide and round, but never broad or baroque. The Schlossberg combines its sappy, well- concentrated Riesling fruit with the mineral soul of the granitique cru, and finishes with lemon flavors and a lingering salinity. Very long and complex; here, you get both the salty mineral character of the graniteque soil and the ripe but coolish lime-perfume of the upper part of the south-facing Cru, which benefits from cool nights since it is located in a small valley with forests and the Weinbach stream. A great and promising Riesling.

Bright, green-tinged yellow. Highly perfumed nose offers scents of lemon zest, arugula, acacia flower and wet stone. At once dense and light on its feet, showing a highly mineral component to the ripe orchard fruit and floral flavors. Finishes very pure and long, with an impeccable acid/sugar balance and repeating floral and mineral notes. This intensely mineral- driven Schlossberg is a very different wine from Weinbach's Riesling Cuvée Sainte Catherine (also made from Schlossberg grapes), which is far more tropical fruit in style. But in my experience, this wine, like most of those made with grapes grown in this grand cru, can take on a decidedly more fruity quality after a few years.

Subtle notes of earth mix with summer blossom, there also are hints of honey and quince and zesty, fresh lemon peel. These aromas dance and take turns on the dry, balanced palate that shines both with rich fruit and slender tone. Lemony freshness pervades everything with its lemony brightness. This is lovely now but will be even lovelier over the years. Drink 2016-2030.

A light- to medium-bodied, elegant white, this is dense and minerally, with firm acidity tightly meshed to a smoky underpinning and flavors of fresh-cut Gala apple, verbena and lemon curd, accented by spun honey and white peach hints. Bright and focused, presenting a lasting, saline-tinged finish. Drink now through 2029. 419 cases made. -AN.