2017 Wachenheimer Böhlig 1. Cru Pfalz Dr. Bürklin-Wolf

Major funk at first, from wild ferment and long lees contact, but with slight aeration beautiful peaches emerge. Medium-bodied with a texture that's simultaneously firm and silky through the long finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

The 2017 Wachenheimer Böhlig P.C. is excitingly pure, fresh and elegant on the bright and chalky/flinty nose. Enormously salty, pure and fresh on the palate, this is a linear and elegant, intense, lush and perfectly balanced Riesling with a long and stimulatingly salty finish. Great finesse and elegance. Tasted in Wachenheim in December 2019.

Stony and alkaline suggestions on the nose, mingled with smoky notes of black tea, anticipate the relatively austere impression conveyed on a firm, lightly grainy palate. One can't credit this with much youthful fruitiness; but then, that seems to be typical for the Rieslings from this site. Typical, too - this time exhibited in spades - is the veritable surge of emphatic flavor intensity that comes after you swallow (or, if necessary, spit): a tongue-tinglingly energetic impingement of crushed stone, peat and alkali. This is another of those Bürklin-Wolf 2017s that deserves patience.