2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1. Cru Champ Gain La Vougeraie

A fuller colour but bright and even with a slight green reflection. Some reductive tension to the nose. Promising. There is more volume here than most wines in this flight, with fresh apple notes and a steely intensity. Fine persistent finish.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain 1er Cru was clouded by some reduction on the nose, though I feel there is good fruit underneath. The palate is simple, offering red apple, touches of nectarine and a hint of peach. A lilting Puligny without any major ambitions, yet clean and pure with a lot of extract. Just give this 2–3 years to address the aromatics. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

Very fresh aromas consist of just sliced Granny Smith apples and lemon zest aromas are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. There is once again a lovely sense of underlying tension to the racy, mineral-driven and focused flavors that are presently somewhat lean though this may well flesh out in time.