2017 Meursault 1. Cru Les Perrières Henri Boillot

From purchased grapes. Full bright primrose. This has the most reductive nose of the wines to date. Is it linked to the mineral style of Perrières? Quite good density, a saline touch at the back, huge energy to finish with an a very long finish. All at the back. Tasted: November 2018.

Boillot's 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is superb, and one of the highlights of the range this year, unfurling in the glass with notes of lemon oil, crisp green apple, struck flint and smoky reduction. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, stony and tensile, with considerable depth, concentration and chewy dry extract. It's indelibly marked by the site that produced it.

Pale, bright yellow. Reticent, very pure scents of underripe pineapple, white peach and crushed stone. Like the previous Meursault samples, this boasts lovely purity and suavity; it verges on opulent while delivering an almost weightless impression. Quite closed today and not revealing its inherent personality but its acidity and saline minerality are already perfectly integrated. The longest of these 2017s to this point, but this backward Perrières will need at least a few years in bottle to display its minerality.