2017 Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune Domaine Rostaing

Have I shortchanged Rostaing's incredible 2017 Cote Rotie Cote Brune? Swirling notes of roses, herbal tea and lavender potpourri impart kaleidoscopic complexity on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is creamy-ripe in texture yet silky, lithe and downright sexy. Firm tannins on the lengthy finish leave a lasting impression of longevity, of restrained intensity that should carry this wine at least two decades into the future.

Diametral modsætning, perfektionistisk côte rotie. Jeg er øjeblikkeligt oppe i himlen, løftet derop af vin, løftet derop af syrah på solbagte men kølede skråninger. Trompetliljerne vælter frem, rosenpeber supplerer, røget pølse, kålpølser, koks og hindbær, tørret okselår som i Léon, Monstrøs og smuk på samme tid, enorm ramme af velsmag, finkornet og detaljeret på tungen, total harmoni, engleagtig berøring på den ene side, men spark på den anden. Guddommelig vin.

Rostaing's Côte Brune is only made in the best years, which recently have been 2013, 2016 and 2017. It's sourced from 20-year-old vines on very poor soils, with a bit more clay than average but not deep. Soaring floral aromas of rose, violet and potpourri lead into a medium-bodied palate showing the most beautiful purity of juice - so concentrated but so lifted. Tannins are very refined, but very much present and strong. It has a very long, pure finish with a touch of menthol and citrus freshness, and a gently mineral undertow adding to the length. An extraordinary, beautiful, spellbinding expression of Cote-Rôtie. The yield of 30 hl/ha has produced 1,000 bottles.

Even better, which is hard to believe, the 2017 Côte Rôtie Côte Brune is pure silky and is as elegant and seamless as they come. Like the Côte Blonde, it has an incredible floral quality as well as complex notes of classic Côte Rôtie black raspberries, violets, flowers, new leather, and spice. The tannin quality is off the charts and this already offers pleasure today, yet it won't hit prime time for another 7-8 years and will keep for 25-30 years.

Deep, youthful violet. Deeply perfumed aromas of ripe blackberry, boysenberry, incense, violet candy and smoky minerals show excellent clarity and spicy lift. Impressively concentrated and alluringly sweet, offering palate-staining dark berry liqueur, licorice candy, bitter chocolate and violet pastille flavors, complemented by a touch of exotic spices that emerges on the back half. Finishes broad, chewy and strikingly long, with steadily building tannins and resonating florality. -- Josh Raynolds 95 Josh Raynolds 2025 - 2035 .