2017 Chambertin Grand Cru Henri Boillot

(near the very top of the vineyard and atypically, the rows are planted North-South). A spicy if decidedly inexpressive, pure and cool nose blends highly complex aromas of cassis, violet, lavender, earth and game. There is an overt muscularity and obvious power to the big-bodied and concentrated flavors that terminate in an austere, palate staining and wonderfully persistent finish that is very clearly structured for mid-term plus cellaring. In a word, terrific. 96/2034+ .

Dense black colour, with a purple rim, there is much more density to this than the Clos de Bèze. It is almost difficult to put this in the mouth the intensity is so evident! There is a certain sucrosity, it is more black fruit than red, with a huge amount of weight and concentration but without losing elegance. Only one barrel though. Tasted: November 2018.

There are two barrels of the 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru, a wine that's more focused and tensile than the Clos de Bèze, offering up aromas of sweet cassis, red berries, baking chocolate, soil and espresso, framed by a touch of cedary new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, bright and precise, with a pretty core of fruit and a mineral finish.

The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru is much more reticent on the nose than Boillot's other Grand Crus, to the extent that it is difficult coaxing much fruit from the glass. The palate is medium- bodied with toasty tannin, quite sweet on the entry with candied orange peel, hints of brown sugar and pain d'épices towards the finish that does possess an impressively long aftertaste.