2013 Greywacke Chardonnay Marlborough

Aromatic and expressive, with smooth cedar, toasted hazelnut, baked apple and poached pear notes, graced by accents of nutmeg, lemon meringue pie, fig and chamomile. The finish goes on and on, showing juicy accents. Drink now through 2030. -MW .

The 2013 Chardonnay has an understated, very classy nose of white peaches, fresh apples and lemon curd with hints of honeysuckle, almonds and baker's yeast. Medium- bodied, the intensity of flavors - both citrusy and savory - does not disappoint with gorgeous ginger and nut layers and a lovely long finish.

(a 50/50 blend of the high-acid Mendoza clone and clone 95, from hard-harvested vines on clay soils in central Wairau up to 20 years old; 50% of the juice goes straight to barrel; fermented in barrels with wild yeasts): Bright medium yellow. Very ripe yellow fruits complicated by a sulfidey, leesy complexity and a hazelnutty nuance. Tactile, concentrated and strong, with a note of oak char adding another dimension without overwhelming the grapefruit and stone fruit flavors. At once structured and delicate. The Mendoza clone is high in acidity, notes Kevin Judd, and this wine always goes through malolactic fermentation.

This is a fairly big, weighty Chardonnay, but one whose alcohol levels are balanced by crisp acids. Aromas of smoke and toasted grains lead the way, followed by hints of whole wheat toast and lemon curd. The long, mouth-watering finish brings the citrus elements back to the fore. Drink now-2018.