2005 Volnay Caillerets 1. Cru Marquis d'Angerville

The d'Angerville 2005 Volnay Caillerets features floral and black cherry aromas, an intensely salty, meaty, faintly peppery, and persistently ripe black-fruited palate, and a rich finish that adds deeply meaty and distinctly chalky mineral dimensions. This shows striking grip and persistence, vivid, invigorating primary fresh fruit juiciness, and meaty depth, along with superb refinement of tannins and an incipiently silken texture. The late Jacques d'Angerville's son Guillaume and long-time wine making collaborator and brother-in-law Renaud de Villette can boast a superb collection of 2005s, but an equally apt tribute to the legacy of the late Marquis are the odds-beating results they bottled from 2004, when to the universal difficulties of that vintage were added the ravages of hail it visited on Volnay. The 2005s fermented with pump-overs but no punch-downs and exhibit formidable underlying structure yet pure fruit and early, flattering textural development.