2016 Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru La Vougeraie

Pungent aromas of reduction and wood toast dominate the nose today. There is once again good volume and mid-palate concentration to the superbly intense, indeed almost painfully so, medium weight flavors that culminate in a chiseled, bone dry and powerful finish. This is perhaps less refined than usual but what it trades off in elegance is made up for in punch and persistence. (91-93)/2023+

Wines like this rarely appear surrounded by a gaggle of peers, so judging them fairly can sometimes be difficult, but our judges weren't in any doubt that this is an outstanding example of wine from this relatively small, 3.68- ha vineyard in the Puligny side of the Montrachets. It's still relatively pale in colour with inspiringly complex, layered aromas of fleshy stone fruits, of baked bread, of freshly picked, grass-flecked wild mushrooms, cream and even a little of the nourishing sweetness of chicken stock. On the palate, this is structured and relatively broad in architecture but graceful, fresh and lively in its flavours. All the elements are in place for even more enchantment down the line, but this is not a forbidding young Grand Cru and it would make a great treat in the next year or two, too. Drink 2019-2030

The wines from this 0.5-hectare parcel have improved immeasurably since it was acquired from Vincent Girardin. Bienvenues is always more restrained than neighbouring Bâtard and that's definitely the case here, despite the low yields in 2016. White flowers, some orange zest and an elegant, chalky finish. Superb. 2019-26 .