2015 Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru La Vougeraie

Classy and refined on the nose with incredible flinty perfume. Ripeness of fruit on the entry but still very elegant with great freshness. Pure white fruit and taffeta texture all rounded off with a long finish.

The 2015 Bienvenus-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a crisp, citrus peel bouquet with slight gravelly scents coming through with time. The palate is crisp again on the entry, nicely balanced but it needs to show more mineralité on the finish, which feels a little ordinary against others this year.

This 0.5-hectare parcel was acquired by La Vougeraie from Vincent Girardin and is making better wines under the new owners. It's always less exuberant than its neighbour, Bâtard- Montrachet, showing notes of iodine and the sea shore, subtle oak and scented pear and citrus fruit. 2018-25.

The 2015 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru sports light reduction on the nose, along with hints of popcorn and orange peel. This opens nicely in the glass. The taut, precise palate is well balanced, with a killer saline kick that bursts through on the persistent finish. It needs time - say, another three or four years - but it has a lot of potential. This shows much better in bottle than out of barrel. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting. 2021 - 2036.