2013 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne Côte-Brune Guigal

The 2013 Cote Rotie La Landonne blew me away. Massive, concentrated and with high, yet sweet, tannin and bright acidity, it offers thrilling purity in its mineral, lead pencil and black and blue scented bouquet. The tannin quality here is really what sets up above just about every other Cote Rotie made in the vintage.

Red A thunderhead of dark ganache and espresso notes slowly rolls through, while fig paste, melted licorice, warm plum and blackberry compote flavors follow. A massive beam of graphite drives the finish to a crescendo, with the fruit echoing. Best from 2022 through 2050. From France.-J.M.

The gem of the lineup (and my money is on the wine of the vintage), the 2013 Côte Rôtie La Landonne sports a deep purple color and killer notes of blackcurrants, black olives, game, and spice. It picks up more minerality with time in the glass and offers a full-bodied, powerful, concentrated style on the palate. With awesome tannin quality (but lots of them) and integrated, yet high acidity, forget bottles for 7-8 years. It should keep for 2-3 decades.

The most brooding nose of the trio of La La's with dark coal smoky aromas and dark stones, graphite and cocoa powder. Fruits are in the very dark plum and blackberry spectrum but flavors are held in a more savory mode with assertive, powerful clean-cut tannins that hold endless length. Truly a masterpiece. Best from 2022 and for two decades or more.

Bright purple. Explosive aromas of ripe dark berries, licorice, incense, vanilla and Indian spices, joined by a smoky nuance as the wine opens up. Deeply concentrated yet impressively lively and precise on the palate, offering intense, finely etched black and blue fruit, cherry liqueur and floral pastille flavors complemented by hints of olive paste and star anise. Smoothly blends richness and finesse, offering wonderful clarity and no rough edges. Shows superb energy and thrust on the dark-fruit-dominated finish, which features building tannins that add shape and closing grip.