2006 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Isole e Olena

The 2006 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione is a controversial wine and for good reason. Proprietor Paolo De Marchi was initially opposed to the idea of introducing the Gran Selezione category above the Chianti Classico Riserva. But more than a year ago, the Institute of Masters of Wine held a special dinner in Florence and producers were invited to pour only Gran Selezione wines. Paolo had an amazing barrel of Sangiovese put aside for a commemorative wine to celebrate his 30th anniversary as a winemaker. He hoped to dedicate that wine as a special limited release. Because he also wanted to pour something of his at the Masters of Wine dinner, he declassified the wine and re-registered it as a Gran Selezione. This also explains why it is from an older vintage. Most of his peers inaugurated this new category with the 2010 vintage. Only 1,800 bottles were made (of which 500 are put aside for the family's personal use) and the blend consists of Sangiovese with 12% Cabernet Franc and 8% Syrah. "I love Chianti Classico and I love super Tuscans," says Paolo De Marchi. "This wine is a crossover of the two." The wine shows gorgeous ripeness with brooding dark fruit, depth and extreme balance. This is a wine that makes a statement upfront both in terms of the quality of the aromas and its overall integrity and persistency.

A blend of 80% Sangiovese, 12% Cabernet Franc and 8% Syrah, this concentrated wine opens with aromas of ripe black-skinned berry, exotic spice, vanilla and French oak. The rich palate offers mature black cherry, red currant, cedar and mocha alongside fine-grained tannins. It will definitely appeal to fans of French influenced Tuscan bottlings.